This review is the second among a set of two and a part of the Turned Tables series. You may find the first review in this set on Instagram.

Given that most popular restaurants in Dublin are essentially wooden tables and chairs in moderate-sized rooms, Oliveto feels lavish with its ample space and neat, white tablecloths. A view of the Dun Laoghaire waters also sets it apart and earns the restaurant prime status, at least in the books of anyone who recognises the importance of a good view when dining out.

The business model for some of the city’s favourite Italian spots seems to be a focus on food only, to the extent that the decor feels like an afterthought. This isn’t a problem at Oliveto; it’s evident that care and thought has gone into how the restaurant looks.

Weekdays have a smaller menu during lunch time, while the full a la carte is available on weekends. From the full a la carte, the mushroom arancini breaks open to reveal a juicy mushroom filling, which forms rich bites along with the shaved parmesan. A crispy outer casing and meaty stuffing are what arancini dreams are made of.

The bruschetta with whipped goat’s cheese, roasted grapes, almonds and Irish honey is like a cheese board compressed into a starter. It deserves star status on the menu, the roasted grapes being an unusual but genius partner-ingredient to the creamy goat’s cheese.

A main of agnoletti was excellent: a creamy mushroom sauce forming a reliable base for the tender pasta filled with ricotta and parmesan. As the agnoletti tears apart when you bite into it, the ricotta and parmesan ooze out and, along with the mushroom butter sauce, make every mouthful luxurious. The pressed potatoes make a tasty side, layered to perfection.

It’s a good idea to get a glass of white with the lighter dishes on the menu, which I did as a treat. Servers check in consistently and are attentive when you need them, making service here something to compliment as well.

Dessert was as on point as the rest of the meal: tiramisu served in a cappuccino cup. Dusted with chocolate powder, it had the perfect proportion of whipped mascarpone to coffee-soaked ladyfingers. It’s a considerable portion for one person after a full meal, and so I’d recommend sharing if you have dining companions.

While a few Italian restaurants in Dublin have earned the trendy badge and are reveling in their popularity, Oliveto stands quietly in the confidence that it’s good at what it does. There’s no aggressive marketing or PR involved, which is what makes the restaurant lovably old-school.