This review is the second among a set of two and a part of the Turned Tables series. You may find the first review in this set on Instagram.

Anyone who has lived in Dublin long enough to see its food scene mushroom into the current smorgasbord knows two things well: make a reservation well in advance, or show up well before opening time. While the city is yet to experience queues as impassioned as those outside some London restaurants, a handful of favourite spots are indeed subjects of similar (albeit more contained) zeal.

It’s advisable to get to Bambino by 11.45am to be able to wait inside instead of on the street, which is where the queue extends more often than not. The room is small and snug but not quite intimate, despite the number of people who’re often in it. A detached vibe works well to keep things moving at busier times, and is also very much in line with most things that come with the “NYC-style” tag.

I’ve been tempted by Bambino’s hot pep slice on all three occasions I’ve eaten there. A moderately thin base with a light layer of tomato sauce is topped with a slightly more substantial layer of Irish mozzarella, Fior di Latte and Grana Padano. Discs of pepperoni and pickled jalapeño glisten under a drizzle of crystal-clear hot honey, which often drips onto your hands in beautifully messy ways. While it was initially my favourite among all the slices on the menu, I felt its appeal diminish with every subsequent visit. 

The last time I ate the hot pep was especially disappointing: the mix of three otherwise incredible types of cheese was more scarce than before, and the pepperoni tasted like it was past its best before date. A wild garlic and ricotta slice from the Specials menu was a lot more pleasant. The staff grated fresh lemon zest onto the slice right before serving, which complemented the delicate garlicky flavour with its muted citrus kick. 

Bambino’s regular cheese slice is standard, although I do remember liking it a lot more on my first visit about a year ago than when I ate it a few months ago (and then again a few weeks ago). Recently, the missing ingredient in their slices has really been freshness, and it’s not exactly an aspect that anyone serving food can afford to compromise. Pickled chillies from the Extras are a fun topping to get, but they can only do so much to salvage bites that everyone in Dublin otherwise has very high expectations of. 

As an NYC-style pie shop that so many rely on, I’m not sure whether their popularity has chipped away at the quality or if it’s something else. While the question warrants further investigation, I won’t be feeling tempted to return until I hear at least five other people raving about it with as much enthusiasm as they did when the place was newer. 

I’d like to believe my last two visits were victims of a temporary glitch, and that the team is working towards getting things back on track. Meanwhile, it would be interesting to see if pilgrims devoted to this pizza hotspot continue to remain as steadfast.